News article, 20. December 2023
The pig takes pride of place in Danish gastronomy
The Pork Dish of 2023 award went to the iconic Svinkløv Badehotel and Sous Chef Oliver Bendi, whose dish with its superb flavours, dazzled the judges.
Denmark has truly made a name for itself on the international food scene - with a wealth of Michelin stars awarded to restaurants across Denmark and gold medals won at Bocuse d'Or, the unofficial world championships for chefs. And then there’s Noma, the three-starred Michelin restaurant named the world’s best restaurant in 2010, 2011, 2012, 2014 and again in 2021. Not to mention Geranium, which took the title of world’s best restaurant from Noma in 2022.
This impressive performance has cemented Denmark’s position as a world-class culinary destination It is therefore no surprise that raw materials are what count in the Danish restaurant scene, where chefs and farmers work closely together to ensure the highest quality. This is definitely the case with the pig. That it occupies a special place in the heart of many chefs, on menus and in the dishes prepared by Denmark’s gastronomic talents is no surprise – and something that the Danish Agriculture & Food Council focuses on in its Pork Dish of the Year 2023 competition.
PORK DISH OF THE YEAR
Denmark’s most talented chefs have been invited to participate in the Danish Agriculture & Food Council’s competition, Pork Dish of the Year, for the past eleven years. The purpose of the competition is to develop and refine the pig as a raw material and to show that pork belongs in the top gastronomic sphere and is not only for daily consumption. The pig has many qualities that appeal to chefs. Pork is extraordinarily rich in taste (600+ taste nuances), is rich in protein and has a relatively low carbon footprint compared with other meat. The pig is an essential part of Danish food culture.
The Pork Dish of 2023 award went to the iconic Svinkløv Badehotel and Sous Chef Oliver Bendi, whose dish with its superb flavours, dazzled the judges. His recipe consisted of glazed bavette of free-range pork with late summer cabbage, oysters and crackling. The judges commented as follows:
”The pork is indulged with flavours and textures that elevate the dish, but never allows the guest to forget that it’s all about the pork. Deep nuances – but with room for fresh, salty and tart notes, which coalesce to remind guests how fantastic pork can be when surrounded by good companions.”
The winner of the competition is the chef or restaurant that can demonstrate great artisanal techniques and cuts that can create a mouth-watering experience. This year, the number of restaurants nominated set a new record, which reflects involvement with the category. Anders Nicolajsen, member of the jury and chief adviser at the Danish Agriculture & Food Council says:
”Pork has a special taste, with more than 600 different flavour nuances. It’s a versatile raw material, whereby those who master its complex flavour universe can create unforgettable experiences, irrespective of whether pork plays a main role or is used as a “spice” in the greener dishes. The chefs’ dishes emphasise that the industry is in a constantly forward-looking development and continues to delight with pork on the menu.”
WHY PORK?
The Pork Dish of the Year plays a decisive role in highlighting pork as a key raw material in the Danish food world. With its format, the competition succeeds at challenging chefs to be creative and to rethink pork as a flavour component. Chefs are generally playful professionals, and when given the chance, magic happens when they experiment with raw materials in new and innovative ways. By honouring the best pork dish, the competition pays tribute to both artisanal techniques and culinary creativity that raises the pig to new heights in Danish gastronomy.
But how and when did the pig gain so much traction in Denmark? According to historical sources, the domestic pig first appeared in Denmark around 4000 BC from Southern Europe. Domestic pigs and wild boars co-existed in Danish forests and were hunted by humans. The pig has been part of Danish food culture for hundreds of thousands of years and has evolved from living freely in nature to being an important part of agricultural production from the mid-1800s.
Helle Brønnum Carlsen, jury members and writer of 'The Pig – a cultural historical and gastronomic tale', says:
"The pig is part of the DNA of Danish food culture. It has existed in the wild since the Stone Age and it has always been part of our diet. Since then, it has become part of a big export adventure and discredited gastronomically. Fortunately, however, we’re starting to produce new pig breeds and take the pig seriously both as an animal and as a food product.”
Danish food culture has thus succeeded in rediscovering and appreciating the pig as an important resource, both historically and in the present. The Pork Dish of the Year competition has enabled the Danish Agriculture & Food Council to enhance the profile of, and arouse interest in, the pig and has shown what a great raw material it is.